Why a Roadworthy Certificate Matters (and What You Need to Know)

Buying or selling a car in South Africa? The roadworthy certificate (RWC) is one of those legal but easily misunderstood pieces of the puzzle — here’s a breakdown of what it is, when you need it, and how to get it done the right way.

What Is a Roadworthy Certificate?

• It’s a document issued by authorised testing stations confirming that a vehicle meets minimum safety standards. 

• Important: It’s not a guarantee that your car is mechanically perfect — just that it’s road-safe by the law’s definition. 

When Do You Need One?

You’ll typically need a valid RWC when:

• Transferring ownership of a used vehicle 

• Re-registering a deregistered car 

• Registering an imported vehicle 

• Changing major vehicle details (engine, colour, etc.) 

• Applying for a special or vintage licence 

Note: For brand-new cars from dealerships, the RWC is often already handled — so buyers don’t always need to organize it themselves. 

Who Pays for It? Buyer or Seller?

• Legally, the seller should provide a valid RWC at the point of sale. 

• But in private sales, this is negotiable. Some buyers take the car “as is” and get the test done themselves; others split the cost. 

• Dealerships often just roll the cost into the sale price. 

• Crucial: The licensing authority won’t complete an ownership transfer without a valid RWC. 

How Long Is the Certificate Valid?

• 60 days from the date of issue. 

• Ownership transfer must happen within that window — you can’t stretch it. 

What’s Checked During the Test?

Inspectors will go through all the key safety systems:

• Brakes (pads, discs, handbrake, fluid) 

• Steering & suspension (alignment, shock absorbers) 

• Lights & electricals (headlights, indicators, horn, wipers) 

• Tyres (tread depth must be ≥ 1.6 mm) 

• Body structure (rust, seatbelts, doors) 

• Engine & transmission (leaks, smoke, mounts) 

Non-safety / cosmetic things (e.g. sound system, A/C) are not part of the test. 

Common Reasons for Failing

Vehicles most often fail for:

1. Worn brakes or fluid leaks 

2. Faulty or broken lights 

3. Bald or damaged tyres 

4. Steering / suspension issues 

5. Cracked windshields 

6. Seatbelt problems or dashboard warning lights 

7. Engine or coolant leaks 

A simple pre-check at your garage before the test can save time and money. 

Where to Get Tested

• Use authorised Vehicle Testing Stations, either public or private. 

• Public (government) centres: cheaper but potentially long waiting times. 

• Private centres: faster, often allow pre-inspections. 

What If You Fail?

• You’ll get a detailed report of what went wrong. 

• Fix the issues, then retest. If you return within a set window, you may pay a reduced retest fee. 

• If you miss that window, you typically pay full price again. 

Selling Without a Certificate?

Transfer of ownership cannot proceed without a valid RWC in most cases. 

Exceptions:

• Selling to a dealer (they’ll test before reselling) 

• Scrap or export sales 

• Transfers within family (depending on provincial rules) 

• Even in these cases, get a written agreement outlining responsibilities.

Source: AutoTrader